ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 3

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 3/5

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It’s my 3rd day here.

I get up, the sky is gray but brighter than the other days. I burn to go explore the bottom of the fjord, the beach, enlarge my space. I think about it since the first hour but there is a problem: the incessant rain has inflated the torrent that runs along our camp. It forms a difficult border to cross. Although I explore upstream, downstream, I see nowhere to go on the rocks dry foot and I’m afraid of falling into the water with all my camera equipment.

Tobias encourages me to do it: go! You’ll find a fox burrow on the beach (without telling me exactly where, it’s up to me to find it and I appreciate this idea of treasure hunt). I do not want it any more, Tobias tries to help me to cross on dry foot, but as expected I fall into the water.

Nothing serious, I have water up to the thigh, but that’s it, I finally went to the other side!

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In the floc floc of my shoes full of water I advance with excitement towards this new universe.
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Above me like an overhead rail, thousands of birds fly in the same direction, silent but so many that I hear the movement of air on their wings.

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I see the waterfall but before I get there I take advantage of new shapes, materials and colors like mossy rocks fluorescent green, I who have known so far only gray gray pebbles.

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Arrived on the sand the environment seems prehistoric. I have the feeling of an original territory, many millions of years old. I remain on my guard: at any time a pterodactyl can dive on the beach.

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Everywhere this lush and wild vegetation, difficult to cross, these gigantic flowers and wood, so rare in Iceland, found here in quantity. Party of Siberia it is carried by the currents of the Arctic Ocean .

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The many waterfalls down the terrain have dug a groove that winds through the sand to the sea.

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The sand is black but a thin layer of blond sand scales the shore. The whole is of a breathtaking beauty.

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I notice at the bottom a silhouette. A kitten is alone on the beach, searching with his nose the sand he seems hungry and desperately looking for something to eat.

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The colors of this landscape are fascinating. I guess it’s the reward for all my efforts to get here. And that bad weather – if it’s hard to live – is actually a godsend.

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It is not easy to describe what I feel here, feeling of exaltation increased tenfold by loneliness.
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Fresh traces. Tobias was right, there must be a burrow somewhere on the beach.

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I see on the opposite side another kit, so tiny at the foot of the cliffs.

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The most incredible thing is that the burrow was right behind me. Hidden by a dune I did not see him. A mother is with her child. Filled with gaiety and insuscience he does not stop playing with it, jumping on it, nibbling it constantly. She, suspicious, pierces my eyes.

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Sudden attack of the little coyote. This liveliness in reality will depend on its survival. It is necessary to catch birds, their main food.

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I spend hours watching them lie in the sand so as not to frighten them.
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Two foxes join them now. I am living an extraordinary moment. As a photographer of landscapes, I had never experienced the unique sensation of watching a wild animal in its natural environment.
We feel an intense emotion, loneliness reinforces the idea of communion with the animal and the wilderness around us.

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The little ones finally disappear and the mother falls asleep peacefully. I decided to return to the camp, crazy for happiness to have lived this moment.

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I go back to the waterfall under a ray of sunshine unpublished since my arrival.
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Back to the pebble beach. We see the houses at the bottom.

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When I arrive at the camp, Tobias is in big discussion with two hikers.

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Let’s make the presentations:
Left JunPyo Hong aliases JP , he is a doctor in Seoul in South Korea. Photographer, he travels to the most beautiful countries in the world to make beautiful images.

In the middle Haukur Sigurðsson , the man in the purple hat (even if he does not wear it on this image). Haukur lives in Isafjordur, he is a child of the country. He knows Westfjords like his pocket and seldom leaves this region, except to travel around the world.
JP hired Haukur to guide him in Hornstrandir.

Right: of course you’ll have recognized it, it’s my friend Tobias!

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Quick debriefing around the map. Haukur and JP take advantage of this beautiful day to hike, we decide to go together on the cliffs of Hornbjarg.

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My fox friend passes not far from us. For once the light is not too bad and I look forward to this atmosphere on this spring image.

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