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ICELAND 2012 † 4

"The Kodachrome trip"

Part 4/6

 
 
 

La côte sud, Vik, Dyrholaey

 

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Return to the south coast where we recover strength on the Gufufoss meadow. Andy swallows his bottle after swallowing some kleinas (Icelandic pastries).

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Gufufoss is hidden in a fault, it is not difficult to reach it by cons it is impossible to see it by staying dry. Plan a rain cape!

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A photograph that smells like summer. It seems to me that the small yellow flowers are buttercups, similar to those found at Faroe Islands .

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This photo was taken at Nikon D800 with a Big Stopper from Lee Filters which allows me a 13-second break in the middle of the afternoon. The radiant sun explodes the colors and makes the dark ocean bright and transparent.

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I really like this photograph that I shot in large format on a paper Hahnemühle Photo Rag . The black and white print on this textured cotton fiber paper is beautiful. You should try !

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This view of Dyrhólaey from the ark shows the erosion of the rock that is undergoing the onslaught of an angry ocean all year long.

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The lighthouse of the cape Dyrhólaey captures the last rays of the sun, in the background the Reynisdrangar are already draping in the night.

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Andy, 7:00 am . At first simply posted on my blog, I was surprised how much this image made react. I decided to propose it to you here.

It is in its evocative power that it finds its strength. By looking at it we put ourselves in the place of the amazed child (by Skógafoss ) and at the same time awaken the one who sleeps in us.

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An evocation of Ingólfshöfði in the distance.

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Five photographs (bracketing) were necessary to make this portrait of the most famous plane of Iceland. At that time we could still go by 4×4. And find yourself alone.

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Lakagigar

 

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One of the treasures accessible yet often forgotten . The Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, excavated 2 million years ago, offers an unreal spectacle. Many ledges follow one another and offer impressive – but perilous – views of the canyon. Many signs warn of danger, which suggests some accidents … Dizziness abstain.
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F206 in all its splendor. That it is good to ride on this track finally “soft” after 3 difficult hours in the pebbles to fear a puncture far from everything.

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The Lakagigar is a unique place in the world, the biggest volcanic explosion of all time (the years of famine that followed are at the origin of the French Revolution).

Climbing on the Laki (the volcano that gave its name to the place) we see the 30-kilometer scar on both sides.

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Gold and steel. From here we can see the two twin lakes Kambavatn and Lambavatn . In the horizon, the mountains of Langisjór which I mentioned earlier.

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The Northeast view from the Laki . The volcanic line can be seen on this crushed plane at 200 mm . At the bottom, the flanks of the largest glacier in Europe, the Vatnajökull .

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F207 , commonly known as the Laki loop, offers nice surprises like this crater lake, the Tjarnagigur . The tiny white dots on the lake are swans.

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It happens that we cross trolls in Iceland, what’s more normal after all? That night it was the devil himself who struck me down, evil evocation of Mordor (“black country” in Sindarin) for lovers of J.R.R. Tolkien .

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Jökulsárlón

 

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I always arrive at Jökulsárlón in the evening to enjoy a soft light. In June at midnight the colors of sky, water and ice have the good taste to be perfectly complementary (pink / cyan).
The birds seem to appreciate just as much as me.

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No it is not a jewel Lalique or some master glassmakers of Murano. Most ice blocks in Jökulsárlón are white and opaque, but a few are perfectly transparent. I enjoy watching the texture and reflections.

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Taking a little height, I look up and breathe deeply. It’s 23:44, it’s June 29, 2012. It’s my birthday. The red moon gives me a complicit look. Never forget this moment.

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ICELAND 2009 † 2

“The maiden voyage”

Part 2/3

 
 
 

Carte de la deuxième partie du road trip en Islande en 2009

 
 
 

Jokulsarlon

 

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The silence of the night gave way to a tremendous din of bird calls, all happy to celebrate a new day in this place. It is 6:42.

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Friend who reads these lines, think that we are August 8, 2009. On the beach rest these incredible blocks of ice, the moment is magic yet I am alone, in full “high season”, not a photographer, not a tourist to the ‘horizon.
Things have changed a lot since then. I know.

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To the East fjords

 

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The beauty of an Icelandic horse.

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I did not know the mountains of Stokksness on this first trip. The sky was overcast and then I was too excited to explore the eastern fjords from where we can see this mysterious island named Skrúdur Island .

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It is one of the cross-ups on the road, close to Seyðisfjörður . Yet easy to access, nobody really pays attention to this fall. I want to fix this affront! I find it beautiful and worthy of interest. Here is Gufufoss , “The vaporous fall” …

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Hallormsstadur

 

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Hallormsstadur is an Icelandic “forest” bordering the lake Lagarfljót . We walk on paths lined with multicolored flowers, wild berries, a mossy soil sprinkled with mushrooms. A real delight.

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F910 & Askja

 

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It’s impossible to forget this first day in the Highlands , this feeling of immensity and adventure.

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We are embarking on the legendary F910 that reaches Askja . This track offers the feeling of sinking into the mythology of the Viking people.
These isolated lands were formerly areas reserved for criminals sentenced to exile, deprived for eternity of all contact with civilization.

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We missed a branch of the F910 and here we are on the dam Kárahnjúkar in full construction! No prohibition, no barrier to warn us of danger, here we are in the middle of huge construction machinery under the incredulous gaze of the workers.
Question : who can tell me how these cars descended to the bottom of the canyon?

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Askja and its turquoise Viti is like Rome or Paris , you have to see it once in your life. You can swim there, the water is 25 C ° but how to say … go paddling alone in these opaque waters, probable nest with sea monster … say that I was focused on my photographs. Oh yes, and it was late, we had no time.

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We were picked by a big grain this end of the day, those who surprise you in the mountains. Very dangerous in case of fog, one can quickly be disoriented.

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Myvatn Area

 

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Silver hair of Selfoss . I will return in the middle of winter in 2014 (to follow in a future story).

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The beauty of a whale.

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Thunder light on Námafjall .

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This famous “S” has become emblematic of Mývatn . It is captured from the solfatares of Námafjall , in the direction of Viti that follows.

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It is still early and we are the only ones to go around Viti in front of the solfatares of Leirhnjúkur . It was necessary to seize the chance of this anamorphosis: the heart was visible only from this single point of view.

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I have a real passion for Hverfjall , I feel something magnetic about him. How many times have I gone around? I do not know anymore. What purity, what majesty … The power of nature has left its signature here.

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Further another basin where the dipping is possible, but the water is much warmer (around 45C °) so be careful, it is not far from cooking!
Here is Grjótagjá , sheltered from a fault that is found in Mývatn . Grjótagjá is located near the fabulous crater Hverfjall .
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The pseudo-craters of Myvatn . Maybe you ask yourself why “nickname”? Because these craters are the effect of the soil broth due to a nearby eruption, they have no chimney.

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ICELAND 2009 † 1

2009 ICELAND SKAFTAFELL SEL FARM

“The maiden voyage”

Part 1/3

 
 
 

Carte d'Islande partie 1 du récit de voyage 2009

 

 

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Iceland was not so popular in 2009, still faltering from the banking crisis a few months earlier. Always so secret and you will see it, still quite deserted. Always dreamed, I had carefully prepared this expedition. The investment was such that I was afraid I could go back anytime soon, maybe never? I wanted to see everything, or almost anything, not to miss anything of this natural miracle.

This gallery is a necklace made of the most precious pearls: first time . First falls, first black tracks in the middle of volcanoes, first crossed fords, first glaciers.

Dear friend who reads these lines, maybe you already knew your first time in Iceland?
Or are you preparing for your maiden voyage?

If this is the case, know that this trip is presented in a chronological order: we have walked in that order, exactly. This will give you an idea of the course and the proximity of the various places explored.

This first tour of Iceland will change my life. You will be the witness now.[/ip_width_txt]

Route 32

 

2009 waterfall iceland hjalparfoss

 

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Going on the Icelandic tracks is … like a second birth. Exploring a new world About two hours from the capital, it is Hjálparfoss that opens the ball. Hjálparfoss means “the fall of children” . Indeed, 3 young Icelanders kids at the bottom of the basin. Do you see them?

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2009 waterfall iceland haifoss granni
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If I had to make a list of my first desires before leaving, this eternal couple would have won. It is to them that we left the city we hurried. What a grandiose sight! Háifoss and Granni (122 meters!) finally unveil in a flood of rain, after 20 minutes of a rough track.

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Landmannalaugar

 

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I wanted to see Landmannalaugar from the first day. We arrived at the end of the day after walking on the F208 north . Facing the small Stutur crater , Emilie shivers in front of so much beauty … or maybe because of this fresh air? And yes … it’s August 3rd and it’s … 5 C °.

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Landmannalaugar the photographer will often bring back colorful pictures. Here is a first black and white image of the valley. These cotton flowers waterlogged, whipped by the wind, seem to me to be a privileged witness of the weather more than “capricious” that we will undergo – we do not know yet – 23 days.

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Hike on Blahnukur , the blue mountain under a flood of rain.

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I lamented this weather so detestable, low sky and a soggy lens! Past the anger I console myself seeing the images that translate well I believe the emotion felt.

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Vík í Mýrdal and the South Coast

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Breakfast with Rune (6)” couleur=”white” heure=”11:01″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/5.6″ pause=”1/60″ angle=”36 mm” iso=”250″ ]Petit déjeuner avec Rune au camping de Vik[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Storm on Vik . In the early morning, campers’ eyes are red with a sleepless night. Many tents are disemboweled and companions of misfortune have found refuge on the floor of the dining room. The time of a coffee I exchange with Rune who has just completed the trek of Laugavegur .

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Volcanic rock from Reynisfjara (7)” couleur=”white” heure=”15:59″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”1/30″ angle=”17 mm” iso=”800″ ]Roche volcanique sur la plage de Reynisfjara[/ip_exifs_txt]

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How not to be fascinated by the variety of shapes, textures and movement of this rock, ancient molten lava today petrified.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Marine colors (8)” couleur=”white” heure=”13:33″ appareil=”Canon 50D” diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”10 sec” angle=”17 mm” iso=”100″ ]2009 ICELAND VIK BEACH[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I was eager to try my filter on moving water so why not start on this beach? The vaporous, calm and gentle result as a lullaby is the exact opposite of reality.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Vík í Mýrdal (9)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:12″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/160″ angle=”” iso=”160″ ]Le village de Vik et son stade vu depuis la colline[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Vík í Mýrdal from hill Reynisfjall .
Unfortunately we will not be able to make this picture and I wanted to inform you of it: a dyke of heavy stones has indeed been built since, perpendicular to the beach.
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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Dark Ocean (10)” couleur=”white” heure=”16:46″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”17 mm” iso=”100″ ]La plage de Vik en Noir et Blanc dans la tempête[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Here is this Gothic beach, one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world according to Island Magazine . The gusts of wind are such that the birds seem too frightened to fly. Only two ghostly silhouettes echo us in the distance.

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2009 waterfall iceland skogafoss
[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Skogafoss (11)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:10″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/7.1″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”36 mm” iso=”100″ ]La chute Skogafoss avec un personnage pour donner l'échelle[/ip_exifs_txt]

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A ray of light has yet appeared. Fleeting, he only lit Skógafoss for a few seconds. A few seconds of eternity because the first look at Skógafoss , we never forget it.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Land Rover at Kirkjubæjarklaustur (12)” couleur=”white” heure=”8:15″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/4.5″ pause=”1/40″ angle=”28 mm” iso=”100″ ]Land Rover avec le drapeau islandais au camping de Kirkjubæjarklaustur[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Overnight in Kirkjubæjarklaustur before attacking F206 in the direction of Laki . The weather is always infernal and the campsite man advised us not to go because the visibility will be zero. But I can not bring myself to this abandonment. The Lakagigar , I dreamed too much.

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2009 waterfall iceland fagrifoss
[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Fagrifoss (13)” couleur=”white” heure=”17:42″ appareil=”Canon 50D” diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”10 mm” iso=”100″ ]La chute de fagrifoss en pause longue[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Located on F206 leading to Lakagigar , I am overwhelmed by its beauty. Angel hair, bridal veil? Fagrifoss means “Beautiful Fall” in Icelandic.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”River crossing on F206 (14)” couleur=”white” heure=”18:23″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/7.1″ pause=”1/500″ angle=”39 mm” iso=”800″ ]Traversée de gué avec le Hummer H2[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Crossing ford on the F206 .
Hummer H2 is a loyal and dedicated partner. We are riding high, riding no path, no river.
It is our car, our boat, our living room with a view, our kitchen, our dining room, our bedroom.

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Skaftafell

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”SEL farm in Skaftafell parc (15)” couleur=”white” heure=”19:15″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/8″ pause=”1/25″ angle=”36 mm” iso=”100″ ]La ferme SEL dans le parc de Skaftafell[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Overlooking this desert, the old farm Sel dates from the Middle Ages. It is found in Skaftafell National Park , which has since become part of Vatnajökull National Park . Nestled in the peat to protect itself from the cold, it was abandoned in 1946.

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2009 waterfall iceland svartifoss

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Black Svartifoss (16)” couleur=”white” heure=”18:34″ appareil=”Canon 50D” diaphragme=”f/5.6″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”15 mm” iso=”100″ ]La chute Svartifoss et ses orgues basaltiques[/ip_exifs_txt]

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The queen of Skaftafell is one of iconic waterfalls in Iceland. Radiant in this concert of basaltic organs, here is Svartifoss .

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Ingólfshöfði

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”battle of looks (17)” couleur=”white” heure=”13:18″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”F/10″ pause=”1/800″ angle=”121 mm” iso=”640″ ]Des moutons regardent un grand labbe sur la péninsule d'INGOLFSHOFDI[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I absolutely wanted to discover Ingolfshofdi , this peninsula that is reached by tractor across the lagoon. We discover many emblematic birds such as the Grand Labbe whose wingspan reaches 150 cm.
Posing here in an unlikely looking battle with a sheep, the photo is conducive to showing you its impressive size.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Ingólfshöfði laguna (18)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:30″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”1/200″ angle=”17 mm” iso=”” ]La lagune d'INGOLFSHOFDI[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Here is the lagoon we have to cross to reach the mainland. It is Matta who leads us on this invisible path between sky and sea, only guided by some stakes of wood.
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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Route to the East (19)” couleur=”white” heure=”20:40″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/40″ angle=”39 mm” iso=”100″ ]Sur le pont métalique de la route 1[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Skeiðarársandur is a plain on the south coast formed by glacial meltwater. Route 1 crosses these large lunar expanses, punctuated by metal bridges that are often rebuilt as a result of devastating “flooding”, a kind of terrestrial tsunamis caused by volcanic eruptions.

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Jokulsarlon

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Jokulsarlon at night (20)” couleur=”white” heure=”21:15″ appareil=”Canon 5DMarkII” diaphragme=”f/13″ pause=”1/6″ angle=”29 mm” iso=”100″ ]Le lac glaciaire Jokulsarlon la nuit[/ip_exifs_txt]

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The grail, the holy of holies for any photographer is him: the Jokulsarlon . I discover it in the night. Ghostly. See you tomorrow!

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