ICELAND 2009 † 2

“The maiden voyage”

Part 2/3

 
 
 

Carte de la deuxième partie du road trip en Islande en 2009

 
 
 

Jokulsarlon


 

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The silence of the night gave way to a tremendous din of bird calls, all happy to celebrate a new day in this place. It is 6:42.

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Friend who reads these lines, think that we are August 8, 2009. On the beach rest these incredible blocks of ice, the moment is magic yet I am alone, in full “high season”, not a photographer, not a tourist to the ‘horizon.
Things have changed a lot since then. I know.

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To the East fjords


 

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The beauty of an Icelandic horse.

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I did not know the mountains of Stokksness on this first trip. The sky was overcast and then I was too excited to explore the eastern fjords from where we can see this mysterious island named Skrúdur Island .

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It is one of the cross-ups on the road, close to Seyðisfjörður . Yet easy to access, nobody really pays attention to this fall. I want to fix this affront! I find it beautiful and worthy of interest. Here is Gufufoss , “The vaporous fall” …

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Hallormsstadur


 

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Hallormsstadur is an Icelandic “forest” bordering the lake Lagarfljót . We walk on paths lined with multicolored flowers, wild berries, a mossy soil sprinkled with mushrooms. A real delight.

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F910 & Askja


 

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It’s impossible to forget this first day in the Highlands , this feeling of immensity and adventure.

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We are embarking on the legendary F910 that reaches Askja . This track offers the feeling of sinking into the mythology of the Viking people.
These isolated lands were formerly areas reserved for criminals sentenced to exile, deprived for eternity of all contact with civilization.

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We missed a branch of the F910 and here we are on the dam Kárahnjúkar in full construction! No prohibition, no barrier to warn us of danger, here we are in the middle of huge construction machinery under the incredulous gaze of the workers.
Question : who can tell me how these cars descended to the bottom of the canyon?

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Askja and its turquoise Viti is like Rome or Paris , you have to see it once in your life. You can swim there, the water is 25 C ° but how to say … go paddling alone in these opaque waters, probable nest with sea monster … say that I was focused on my photographs. Oh yes, and it was late, we had no time.

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We were picked by a big grain this end of the day, those who surprise you in the mountains. Very dangerous in case of fog, one can quickly be disoriented.

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Myvatn Area


 

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Silver hair of Selfoss . I will return in the middle of winter in 2014 (to follow in a future story).

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The beauty of a whale.

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Thunder light on Námafjall .

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This famous “S” has become emblematic of Mývatn . It is captured from the solfatares of Námafjall , in the direction of Viti that follows.

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It is still early and we are the only ones to go around Viti in front of the solfatares of Leirhnjúkur . It was necessary to seize the chance of this anamorphosis: the heart was visible only from this single point of view.

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I have a real passion for Hverfjall , I feel something magnetic about him. How many times have I gone around? I do not know anymore. What purity, what majesty … The power of nature has left its signature here.

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Further another basin where the dipping is possible, but the water is much warmer (around 45C °) so be careful, it is not far from cooking!
Here is Grjótagjá , sheltered from a fault that is found in Mývatn . Grjótagjá is located near the fabulous crater Hverfjall .
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The pseudo-craters of Myvatn . Maybe you ask yourself why “nickname”? Because these craters are the effect of the soil broth due to a nearby eruption, they have no chimney.

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Read more

ICELAND † ARCTIC FOX

 
 
 

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Let me present you a selection of photographs of arctic foxes I’ve taken in Hornstrandir in July 2016. You can read the full story of this trip here

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Read more

ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 5

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 5/5

 
 
 

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4th and 5th day (the last).

I gathered these two days on the same page because the first is summarized in some images. The weather was gloomy and I let the rain crackle on Tobias’s tent as the hours passed peacefully under his awakening.

Sometimes it’s good to go with no purpose, to be satisfied with a simple fellowship: a friend, coffee, chatting.

What a strange character that Tobias remains here alone for months. The image quest is also a path to oneself. I think I understood his need to isolate himself from the world and live in peace in this wilderness. I admit that I would also try the experience of an extended stay.

Every day spent here is worth a thousand.

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But do we really need to move when the spectacle that is before you is so beautiful?

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It’s 22pm. I’m about to go to sleep when suddenly… The vixen appears …

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… soon followed by his little …

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… I have the feeling that she got used to my presence? She sits on the rock in front of me …

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… and watch me in the darkness. I realize that she came to greet me almost every night …

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… as if to accompany my dreams.

 

 

LAST DAY


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It’s 9:00 am. A ray of sunlight breaks through the fjord, letting me glimpse the other side for the first time. How beautiful ! A huge bowl is right in front of me…

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… and for the first time, colors appear on the cliffs.

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I see Hornvik’s caretaker’s house who is in charge of this area in summer. It is about an hour’s walk away, there is a campsite next door named Höfn , more popular and more comfortable than the one I live with Tobias ( Horn ) because he is on the beach in a more unobstructed area.

We are more isolated with Tobias but also more in contact with the nature and cliffs of Honrbjarg .

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You see the tiny orange dot to the right of the house? It is an emergency shelter as found in Westfjords . You will find a shelter and a radio to launch an SOS.

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Birds like me like this ray of light. They are millions to cheer the sky.

 

 

HIKING TO LATRAVIK LIGHTHOUSE


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It’s 10:30 when I head south from my camp. In front of me a totally unknown valley that climbs towards cliffs. I have not been to this area before. Tobias told me it was simple: I was going to find a path that would take me to the lighthouse. The hike is given for 3 hours. The boat will pick me up at 4pm. No time to lose!

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The fog thickens quickly and I can not find any path, I walk through a thick moor and waterlogged. There are huge puddles hidden by the bushes and the progression is not easy. Arrived on the heights I see to my surprise a silhouette sitting on a rock. This is a young volunteer from Arctic Fox Center . I salute him from a distance.
He launches me:
“Did you make the map of Iceland?”
He probably heard about my presence here.
I aquiesce. He gives me a thumbs up sign of approval.
I leave immediately for the lighthouse.

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I reach the steep cliffs and run south. I have to be very careful because I do not know anything about this area and visibility is low.

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The landscape is spooky, a Ghost Ship scenery.

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It’s almost noon when the sky is a little clearer and allows me to see, in the distance, the ultimate goal of this trip: Látravík Lighthouse.

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I approach but can not go further for lack of time. As you can see, a house was built next to it. It is possible to be hosted there.

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I enjoy a moment of the great spectacle that surrounds me. Some beautiful shades of blue appear.

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I dream by observing these cliffs facing east, a wild area where man rarely ventures.

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12.30 pm It’s time to return to the camp. The absence of rain and wind made the insects come out and I have to face a cloud of giant flies. I have to cover my head with my hands so that they do not enter my mouth and my ears. Anguish!

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Finally I found the valley to the camp and the flies disappeared with the mist.

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I take advantage of the little time I have left to make some pictures of this particular vegetation.

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3:17 p.m.. It’s so much to join my meeting point. Tobias, a faithful companion, helps me carry my belongings to the boarding area, in front of the two houses.

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4:25 pm The Zodiac arrives to recover me. Long are the minutes before I find the strength to speak. I did not make the same mistake as when I went: I went to the shelter, inside the boat. Beside me a pretty photographer seems alone. She’s American, and her name is Laura .

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2016 ICELAND HORNSTRANDIR LANDSCAPE 13

 

Read more

ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 1

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 1/5

 
 
 

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It was after a short night (2 hours) that I left to the north. Thousands of thoughts cross my mind during the 7 hours of travel. It is 3:40 pm when I drive along the immense fjords of the route 61 between Holmavik and Isafjordur . I touch the goal.

I arrive at 16:00 at Edda Hotel , I am in a state of fatigue rarely lived. However, I will have trouble sleeping, still driven by the adrenaline of the previous night and the stress of leaving all contact with the world in a few hours. Have not I forgotten anything? I have the impression of being on the eve of a departure on the moon and I struggle to find sleep. I only sleep 4 hours.

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Wake up at 6:00 am, check one last time my stuff before joining the port of Isafjordur . I park with caution because my car will stay alone for several days. I join some passengers who are already there, bag screwed on the back. Soon a great fellow of West Tours , bandana on the pirate-like head, invites us to embark on edge of BLIKI 2609

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The small boat is covered by a roof but there are some places outside on the back deck and I sit on the bench, too happy to breathe clean air and capture images during the crossing. We can see from here Le Boréal , one of the luxurious liner of the PONANT cruises specialized in polar expeditions.

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There are twenty seats inside the boat. Our friend from West Tours explains the trip and offers anti-mal-de-mer sweets ( a placebo I’m afraid). I will quickly understand why…

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The first minutes are pure happiness. The weather is cloudy but it does not rain. I sit, a box around my neck the other on my lap. The 70-200 allows me to capture details, the 17-40 the extent of the landscape that is offered to my eyes.

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A pyramid mountain as there are so many in Iceland or Faroe Islands . We cross some quiet birds, the sea is oil.

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Barely gone the reliefs are already impressive. That’s also what I’m looking for in Hornstrandir : mountains and cliffs.

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I capture this image of a zebra sky at wide angle but I gradually lose my means. The hollows are formed, the hull of the boat hits the wall of the waves more and more strongly. The coffee with the milk that I drank 3 hours ago makes me a thousand reproaches.

I am paralyzed on my seat, unable to say a word, I concentrate with all my strength not to let go of my devices but the boat moves in all directions, packs of sea pass over the roof and come to flood us. But what idea did I have to settle behind!

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Fortunately, after 2:10 of calvary (long!), The engine of the boat slowed its regime, we pass close to this rocky column.

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We finally enter the fjord I was hoping for: Hornvik . The landscape is unreal, very wild.

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Rock walls with strange shapes, fine waterfalls …

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… cliffs and cries of birds welcome us.

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A puffin flies over the bay. They are rather rare here, we must take advantage.

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That’s it, the captain stops our boat in the middle of the fjord. At the back we put the small zodiac in the water, it goes back and forth to drop the passengers on the ground.

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11.48. I’m the last one to land. You see my big duffle bag The North Face 130 liters. I also have my camera bag, about 30 kilos to wear in all.

 

INSTALLATION PART 1


It’s noon. The fatigue that has accompanied me for 48 hours now amplified by these 3 hours of driving on a rough sea leaves me dazed on the pebbles. I find myself alone in the middle of nowhere. There are these two houses laid there and that’s it. All other passengers vanished.

I know a campsite is about a kilometer away along the coastal path. But I can not carry all my equipment. So I take my Duffle bag on my back, leave my camera bag alone against the cabin, and go looking for this area.

The path is muddy, waterlogged, practicable limit, and as I am very loaded I sink down half ankle and miss falling several times. After 20 minutes of calvary I see some tents and finally say to me, I will be able to rest.

I leave 20 minutes in the other direction to get my camera bag and come back. I throw my last strength into setting up my tent. I empty my bag, install all my things to be quiet these next 5 days.

The installation takes me 3 hours. It is already 15h. Even if the weather is miserable and we do not see it at 20 meters, even if my legs are barely carrying me I decide to go up the mountain in search of Lake Superior, Miðdalsvatn , I have been waiting to see for months. After all I’m here for 5 days, tomorrow more than 4, we must not lose a drop.

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It climbs harshly and I quickly reach a beautiful point of view. The fog invades the fjord but I have a pretty precise vision of its shape and my new universe. Downstairs I see the two houses and more to the left (we do not see it on the photo) my tent.

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All my senses are awake, and despite fatigue my heart is filled with emotion to discover this new world.

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Three-quarters of an hour later I reach the lake. Mirage of a world which has just been born and of which man has never come to dispel tranquility.

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I spend a long time without moving to watch the show. Sometimes the birds fly to go around the lake and then come back to pose as a pointillist cloud. The mist removes any limit to the universe around me. I feel like I’m in a dream.

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I go along the lake and its meanders, marveling.

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It’s 5pm when I decide to go down because the sky is darkening. Every step of my way is a pain when suddenly … I come face to face with this family of arctic foxes. It seems to me that it’s a fox mother with her little ones. This is the first time I see it and I am speechless.

They stop and watch me for a few moments. By chance I have my 100-400 around the neck, barely time to trigger a little shaking, 3, 4 photos and they are already left.

My tiredness gave way to a broad interior smile. This vision warmed my heart.

 

INSTALLATION PART 2


I join my tent, exhausted, remove my shoes and my pants with difficulty.
I ache everywhere, I’m hungry, drenched, cold.
It is barely 18h but I slip into my sleeping bag with the desire to sleep for 20 hours. There, once installed, while I’m just starting to warm up, I hear some steps approaching my tent:
“You can not stay here, it’s private land, you do not have the right to stay here.”
I’m stunned, I open the zip with difficulty and a woman tells me that I must leave immediately.
The reason ? I settled on the camp area of ​​ Arctic Fox Center which welcomes some volunteers in summer. But this area is strictly reserved for them.
I try to negotiate, explains him I am very tired but she does not want to hear anything: I have to leave without waiting.
Imagine repackaging all my belongings, folding my tent and going back to the unknown. I still do not know, even today, where I found this strength.

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500 meters further I finally see the area. I find two tents near a stream. I decided to settle behind this embankment, in the front line but sheltered from the wind.

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It’s gone again for my installation. I have the impression that this day lasts a year. I finish around 18:30. While I am heating water for a soup I recognize two young men who were on the boat. They wave to me and invite me to join them in their little tent.

They are Israeli. We share their Bolognese pasta (half reversed on one of their downs!) By exchanging on the reasons that have led us here, a very warm moment that makes me very much good.

I join my tent at 9pm and collapse sleep.

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Read more

A DAY UNDER THE GLACIER VATNAJÖKULL

10th march 2015

 
 
CARTE ISLANDE VATNAJOKULL

 
 
 
 

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A day spent in Crystal Cave, the sumptuous ice cave located under the Vatnajökull Glacier in Iceland (March 2015).

Our guide was Aaron Franklín, the young director of localguide.is whom I had seen playing in front of his house in a puddle when he was still a child (in 2009).

If you take the company Icelandair, that’s him playing in the “Welcome in Iceland” video before the flight (I recognized him!).

IMPORTANT: Even though I give you an idea of the location of this cave, it is very difficult to access. Moreover, it is a fragile environment and very sensitive to climate change. Do not attempt a visit over or under a glacier without a professional guide.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave” couleur=”white” heure=”11:08″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”1/6″ angle=”17 mm” iso=”100″ ]2015 11 ICELAND VATNAJOKULL ICE CAVE TOUR[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave – Aron” couleur=”black” heure=”10:54″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”0,3 sec” angle=”22 mm” iso=”100″ ]2015 8 ISLANDE VATNAJOKULL VISITE GROTTE DE GLACE[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave” couleur=”white” heure=”11:22″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”2.5 sec” angle=”24 mm” iso=”100″ ]2015 13 ICELAND VATNAJOKULL ICE CAVE TOUR[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave” couleur=”black” heure=”11:36″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”100 mm” iso=”400″ ]2015 14 ISLANDE VATNAJOKULL VISITE GROTTE DE GLACE[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave” couleur=”white” heure=”11:42″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/20″ angle=”70 mm” iso=”100″ ]2015 15 ICELAND VATNAJOKULL ICE CAVE TOUR[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave – Benoit” couleur=”black” heure=”11:45″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/13″ angle=”70″ iso=”100″ ]2015 19 ICELAND VATNAJOKULL ICE CAVE TOUR[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave” couleur=”black” heure=”11:53″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/7.1″ pause=”1/50″ angle=”f/7.1″ iso=”100″ ]2015 16 ISLANDE VATNAJOKULL VISITE GROTTE DE GLACE[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Crystal Cave – Nini – Antoine” couleur=”black” heure=”12:04″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/30″ angle=”35 mm” iso=”100″ ]2015 17 ICELAND VATNAJOKULL ICE CAVE TOUR[/ip_exifs_txt]

 

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PARTNERS

 

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This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

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FIRST DAY IN THE FAROE ISLANDS

January 21, 2017

CARTE ILE FEROE PREMIER JOUR

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I will not hide it any longer, I was heavy hearted when I landed on the Faroese ground from Reykjavik this January 2017. I did not come from Paris, linen folded in a tidy bag no, I just came back facing 10 days in the harsh winter of the Icelandic Westfjords.

10 days of lonely walking through the fjords, snowstorms and blocked roads, the night falls at 3 pm and landscapes that leave you in tatters.

The trigger was the love of a girl I met in the summer of 2016, a “holiday love” in the Westfjords. This is not common you tell me, to meet someone in these wild lands. Magnetism, the magic of the place must have troubled us. Alas, the story did not last but I wanted to come back, walk in our footsteps to relive on the 66th parallel these moments shared.

Mixing storm and wounded heart was not the best of my ideas. You will soon discover this trip which, if it was trying, allowed me to keep my promise: discover the Westfjords in January.

And then came the time to change. To take some fresh air. Discover a new land. A cousin, a sister of Iceland: the Faroe Islands.

The decision was made a few weeks ago following the support of the Visit Faroe Islands team.

This will surprise you but I did not prepare anything, read anything, see anything on the Faroe Islands. I wanted to feel like a shipwrecked man, landing there without knowing anything, thus making every road, every path, a treasure of discovery.

This adventure will last 18 days. Here is the story of my first day.
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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”oui” produit=”25333″ titre=”First glow on Tórshavn (1)” couleur=”white”  heure=”8:00″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/2.8″ pause=”1/25″ angle=”50 mm” iso=”6400″]Première lueurs sur Tórshavn, capitale des Iles Féroé[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I stayed at the Hotel Foroyar . Everyone knows him. This is the grand hotel of the Faroe Islands. We celebrate weddings, major events, we receive presidents (Bill Clinton has left his name to a sequel). Nestled in the ground and overlooking the city, the rooms all overlook the bay. Every morning is a miracle of colors, lights and reflections.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”oui” produit=”” titre=”The port of Tórshavn (2)” couleur=”white” heure=”8:42″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4.5″ pause=”1/160″ angle=”100 mm” iso=”500″ ]Lever du jour sur le port de Tórshavn[/ip_exifs_txt]

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From here you can see the harbor. I like cities that have a port. I have often said that it is a fragrance that is lacking in Paris .

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What would I do with this day? I only listened to my desire, that of turning left out of the hotel and take 50 , this old road often plunged into the fog that runs through the backbone of Streymoy . It is one of the most beautiful roads of the Faroe Islands, why resist?

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”River of Light in Kollafjørður (4)” couleur=”white” heure=”9:51″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4.5″ pause=”1/320″ angle=”100 mm” iso=”800″ ]La lumière remplie le fjord Kollafjørður[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Make no mistake. The light does not spread like a liquid. It’s solid, compact, it’s a snake of photons that slips slowly into the hollow of Kollafjørður .

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Past the long tunnel here I am on Vagar . Since Sandavágur we can see other islands whose name I do not know yet. I watch the show. The light is low, powerful and fragile at the same time.
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I’m heading to THE LAKE. In all respects he sows trouble. To begin with it has two names: Sørvágsvatn or Leitisvatn , that is according to. The Faroese call it “The Lake”, this solves the question.
Visual trouble then because this lake seems suspended above the waves like the gardens on Babylon . I spend my first hour walking along the calm waters. The contrast with the ocean in the distance is striking.
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Arrived on the cliffs Trælanípa I take the measure of the elements that face me. Here everything is right angle. Horizontal and vertical form the landscape. Nature plays Mondrian .

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I venture on the summits. I reach the point of view so much hoped for. From here we offer ourselves the unthinkable, the elements play with reality. I venture close to the edge. The wind blows so hard, 200 meters below the ocean is unleashed. With a trembling hand I hold the box, the other I grab the rock.

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Further down I see the Bøsdalafossur fall, an umbilical cord that connects clear waters and salt water. Just behind the Geituskorardrangur , basalt canines of the Vagar south coast. There deep down the island of Mykines that makes me dream so much.

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I would like to stay here, enjoy it, but I have another project for the day. It is 12:30, I have an hour to reach the car … it gives us 13:30? okay. The sun sets at 15:58 sharp. It leaves me 3 hours to complete my idea.

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I have taken the lead and this quarter of an hour in advance allows me to try to approach the finger of tröll, the “ Trøllkonufingur “. It is as high as the Eiffel Tower (313 m) yet I do not know how to reach it, it escapes my every step. I walk through a moor full of water, jumping fences, pulling myself out of the bushes, looking for a point of view that will restore all its majesty.

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I found the car. It’s time to go west, it’s already past 14h. I stop at Bøur , hypnotized. It is the most beautiful village that I have ever crossed.

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I pass this river and park my car at the end of a path. There I take my two boxes (5DSR + 24-70 f2.8 II, 5DSR + 100-400 f4.5-5.6 II) around my neck and get ready to climb the mountain Heinanøva culminates at 612 meters.
What is my goal ? Avoid the tunnel and reach Gásadalur on foot, by the mountain. But why ?…

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Until 2004 Gásadalur “the valley of geese” was one of the most isolated villages in the world. The only way to reach it (or leave it!) Was to walk a 3.5 km trail that passes through the mountain. This steep 2h30 route was used by the postman three times a week, whatever the weather conditions.
I wanted to walk in her footsteps to pay tribute to her and enjoy incredible views of Sørvágsfjørður , Tindhólmur , and Mykines . I did not want to discover Gásadalur otherwise than through the eyes of the postman.

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I do not hide that, starting this hike at 14:30 alone and without light, I was a little stressed. But for the same reasons I offered myself a sunset and Tindhólmur against the light, accompanied by fulmars grazing my shoulder each time I approached the void.

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What a thrill to discover Mykines , the bow of the Faroe Islands, silently resting on the ocean in front of me. It seems deserted and for good reason: only 10 inhabitants find refuge, nestled in a valley on the west side, on the other side.
I do not know yet, but I’ll be there a few days later by helicopter (the only way to reach it in winter) reach the village of Mykines to live an extraordinary adventure (to read in an upcoming story).

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At the top the view is indescribable but I have to hurry because the sky darkens.
I run along the path that goes down to the village. The slope is steep and pebbles roll under my feet. I soon reach the road and head for Múlafossur , the iconic fall of Gásadalur .
There is nobody. The crash of the waves covers my wave to the soul.
The image is unreal and the sensations, immense.
I put my tripod because the light is gone. 30 seconds will be needed to capture this image.
It is 4:57 pm
In a minute it will be dark.

2017 FAROE ISLANDS GASADALUR HORSE

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PARTNERS

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This trip was made with the support of Visit Faroe islands

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ICELAND 2009 † SUMMARY

“The maiden voyage”

August 2 → August 25, 2009. 23-day trip divided into 3 parts

 
 

2009 MAP ICELAND DAY BY DAY

 

PART 1 – Hjalparfoss → Haifoss & Granni → Landmannalaugar → Vík í Mýrdal → Skogafoss → Kirkjubæjarklaustur → Fagrifoss → Skaftafell → Svartifoss → Ingolfshofdi

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 1.

 

PART 2 – Jokulsarlon → Gufufoss → Hallormsstadur → F910 Askja → Selfoss → Husavik → Myvatn

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 2. Silhouette près de la chute Godafoss.

 

PART 3 – Hveravellir → Kerlingarfjöll → Gullfoss → Snaefellsnes → Kirkjufell → Westfjords → Reykjanes

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

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ICELAND 2016 † SUMMARY

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

July 23 → 28, 2016. 5-day trip divided into 5 parts

 
 
 

CARTE HORNSTRANDIR

 
 
 

PART 1 – Departure from Ísafjörður to Hornvik

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2016 PARTIE 1.

 

PARTIE 2 – The discovery of arctic foxes

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 2. Silhouette près de la chute Godafoss.

 

PARTIE 3 – Hornvik beach

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

PARTIE 4 – Hornbjarg cliffs and Mt. Kálfatindar

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

PARTIE 5 – Hike to Látravík lighthouse

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

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VOL VERS MYKINES

Le 27 janvier 2017

  

2017 helicopter mykines

Je tenais absolument à voir l’île de Mykines.

Elle devait faire partie de ce voyage.
Oui mais voilà, ça n’est pas simple au mois de janvier.
Seules 10 âmes vivent là-bas, emmitouflées dans un hiver long et rigoureux.
Je n’ai nulle part où dormir.
Et puis, comment y aller ? L’océan est enragé.
Il n’y a guère que l’hélicoptère. Note que ça, ce n’est pas pour me déplaire.

Je vais voir Sölvi et l’équipe de Visit Vagar à l’aéroport. Mykines fait partie de leur territoire, eux-seuls pourront peut-être m’aider ? Coup de chance, on me dit qu’un prénommé Johan se rendra sur Mykines dans 3 jours et qu’il connait très bien l’île. Il pourra surement trouver à me loger.

« Il sera sur le vol de vendredi ».

Des vols en hiver il n’y en a que 2 ou 3 par semaine, et encore il faut prévoir large car c’est fonction de la météo. Si le vent est mauvais on repousse d’autant que nécessaire.

Je prépare mon sac photo, des vivres pour 3 jours et du vin. Un whisky aurait fait plus corsaire mais au feu de l’orge je préfère de loin la douceur du raisin.

Je prévois de partir deux jours : départ le vendredi 27 janvier à 15h, retour le dimanche 29 à 12h30.

– Mais comment ferai-je pour reconnaitre Johan. Je ne sais rien de lui, je n’ai même pas son numéro ?
– Vous n’en avez pas besoin. Il sera là, c’est tout. Ne vous inquiétez pas. Il est au courant.

J’ai donc rendez-vous avez un homme dont je ne sais rien d’autre que le prénom… dans un hélicoptère. Certes la surface n’est pas vaste mais cela reste un des meeting point les plus improbables que j’ai vécu.

Le jour J je me présente à l’héliport de Tórshavn. Le soleil décline déjà, la lumière est belle. Je sens que je vais vivre une expérience hors du commun.

 2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 2

L’hélicoptère arrive. Il est impressionant avec sa capacité de 12 passagers + 2 pilotes. Les îles Féroé en possèdent deux, ils sont utilisés pour de nombreuses missions (dont le sauvetage) et peuvent charger jusqu’à 2 tonnes de matériel.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 1

Je charge mon sac photo dans la soute. Première bonne nouvelle : la cabine de pilotage est ouverte je vais donc pouvoir la photographier. Deuxième bonne nouvelle : nous ne sommes que 3 passagers ! Je m’installe dos à la cabine pour être au plus proche des pilotes. Des casques anti-bruits sont à disposition. Je m’en dispense. Je veux tout entendre, tout ressentir.
Les portes se ferment, chacun boucle son harnais. La machine siffle et s’arrache du sol dans un grondement, le nez pointé vers le ciel. Il fait très chaud, surement à cause des moteurs (ou bien est-ce mon coeur qui s’agite ?). La question qui me hante est : vais-je pouvoir ramener des photos de cette expérience ? Qu’importe le grain (la lumière est basse et le ciel couvert), l’épaisseur du plexi (qui donne cette teinte un peu jaunie), ce que je veux c’est partager l’émotion ressentie.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 3

La chance est tout de même avec moi : je suis tout à mon aise, seul sur ma banquette de 4 places.
Il a fallu faire un choix d’optique avant de grimper. J’ai ressorti mon 17-40 f4 (de tous mes voyages depuis 2009), un grand angle pour avoir le point de vue des pilotes. Je cale entre mes pieds le 100-400 f4.5-5.6 II, il me servira plus tard quand nous aurons pris un peu de hauteur.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER KOLTUR

Nous faisons un premier arrêt sur Koltur, j’apercevois ses fermes de pierre datant du moyen-age, Heima í Húsi.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 4

Nous sommes maintenant au dessus de l’océan, la vue est incroyable, je tente une photo au grand-angle. En face nous voyons la pointe ouest de Streymoy nommée Pálurin.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 5On aperçoit le sud-est de Vágar et son fjord en forme de Y. Nous fonçons vers l’aéroport, seconde halte de notre trajet.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 6

Nous survolons à présent le Sørvágsvatn. Sur la peau du lac on voit les bourrasques de vent. Au loin l’océan.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER VAGAR

Petite pause sur la piste d’atterrissage de Vágar puis nous faisons cap vers le sud. Ce n’est pas le chemin le plus court vers Mykines (ouest) mais c’est surement pour sortir au plus vite du couloir des avions.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 7

Cela me permet de découvrir la côte écorchée du sud de Vágar. En haut à droite on aperçoit Sørvágur.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 8

Nous approchons de la pointe ouest de Vágar.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 9

Voilà le point de vue que j’espérais tant : Tindhólmur, l’îlot emblématique des îles Féroé se dévoile.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 10

Je découvre sa face sud, seulement visible depuis la mer. À droite la non moins célèbre arche de Drangarnir.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 11

Il a un profil si particulier, comme s’il avait été tranché par une lame.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 12

Nous approchons de Mykines. Je capture quelques détails.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 13

Le voici enfin ce village du bout du monde, niché au creux de la vallée. L’océan est déchainé, à certains endroit l’écume prend des teintes jaunes. Je trouve ça beau, ça ressemble à un tableau.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 14

On aperçoit le débarcadère situé dans la faille, en contre-bas de l’héliport. Et on comprend pourquoi il est impossible d’atteindre Mykines en hiver par la voie des mers !

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 15Nous contournons le relief avant d’atteindre l’héliport. J’aperçois quelques cabanes à bateau sur ce récif.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 16Nous voilà posés. Il est 15h38. Nous avons mis exactement 32 minutes depuis Tórshavn.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 17

L’hélicoptère embarque deux passagers. Je le regarde s’élever dans les airs.

 

2017 FAROE ISLANDS HELICOPTER MYKINES 18

À coté de moi se tient un homme, grand et fin, son regard est perçant.
Il me tend la main.
Are you Michael ? I’m Johan. Nice to meet you. Follow me.

 

PARTENAIRES

Ce voyage a été réalisé avec le soutien de Visit Faroe Islands

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WINTER DAY † SILVER LIGHT

9 march 2015

 
 

Carte d'Islande détail de la côte sud

 
 
 

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Eighteen photographs that tell a full winter day in Iceland in March 2015. With my friends Fred, Antoine, Nini and Benoit, without forgetting the unique and indispensable Gummi our Icelandic driver.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”oui” produit=”25333″ titre=”9:14 Icelandic horse” couleur=”black”  heure=”9:14″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/8″ pause=”1/160″ angle=”200 mm” iso=”250″]Cheval islandais de profil dans la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”oui” produit=”” titre=”9:55 Skogafoss” couleur=”black” heure=”9:55″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”1/500″ angle=”28 mm” iso=”100″ ]La chute de Skogafoss avec un personage en silhouette[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”10:20 Skogar plain” couleur=”black”  heure=”10:20″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/4.5″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”41mm” iso=”100″ ]La plaine de Skogar recouverte de neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”10:42 Skogar birds” couleur=”black” heure=”10:42″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”1/400″ angle=”70 mm” iso=”100″ ]Un couple d'oiseau devant la chute Skogafoss[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”11:21 Track to DC3″ couleur=”black” heure=”11:21″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”1/250″ angle=”35 mm” iso=”100″ ]La route vers l'épave de l'avion DC3 sous la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”11:36 DC3″ couleur=”black” heure=”11:36″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/13″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”35 mm” iso=”100″ ]épave de l'avion DC3 sous la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”12:36 Vantage point” couleur=”black” heure=”12:36″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/11″ pause=”1/160″ angle=”35 mm” iso=”100″ ]Vue sur la plage recouverte de neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”12:38 Dyrhólaey Lighthouse” couleur=”black” heure=”12:38″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/11″ pause=”1/200″ angle=”34 mm” iso=”100″ ]Le phare de Dyrholaey sous la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”12h51 Dyrhólaey Lighthouse II” couleur=”black” heure=”12:51″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/11″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”16 mm” iso=”100″ ]Le phare de Dyrholaey sous la neige devant la falaise[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”13:10 On our way to Reynisfjara” couleur=”black” heure=”13:10″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/11″ pause=”1/250″ angle=”33 mm” iso=”100″ ]3 randonneurs descendent la colline de Dyrholaey[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”13:46 Reynisfjara” couleur=”white” heure=”13:46″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/400″ angle=”127 mm” iso=”100″ ]la plage de Reynisfjara sous la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”14:49 Reynisfjara Birds” couleur=”white” heure=”14:49″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark2″ diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”26 mm” iso=”100″ ]Les vagues de Reynisfjara et ses oiseaux[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”14:53 Basalt wall” couleur=”white” heure=”14:53″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/500″ angle=”20 mm” iso=”100″ ]Les orgues basaltiques de Reynisfjara[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”14:55 Basalt Cave” couleur=”white” heure=”14:55″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/9″ pause=”1/160″ angle=”16 mm” iso=”100″ ]La grotte de Reynisfjara[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”15:17 Reynisdrangar” couleur=”white” heure=”15:17″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”89 mm” iso=”100″ ]Gros plan sur un Reynisdrangar[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”16:57 Road to the east” couleur=”white” heure=”16:57″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/20″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”1/50″ iso=”100″ ]Route N°1 sous la neige[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”18:10 Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon” couleur=”black” heure=”18:10″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/10″ pause=”1/60″ angle=”24 mm” iso=”100″ ]La canyon Fjaðrárgljúfur avec la silhouette de Benoit[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”18:47 Night falling on Fjaðrárgljúfur” couleur=”white” heure=”18:47″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/8″ pause=”1/60″ angle=”70 mm” iso=”400″ ]La canyon Fjaðrárgljúfur[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 
 
 

[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”23:34 Night walk” couleur=”white” heure=”23:34″ appareil=”Canon 5Dmark3″ diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”18 mm” iso=”1600″ ]Ciel étoilé[/ip_exifs_txt]

 
 
 

PARTNERS

 

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This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

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