ICELAND 2009 † 2

Posted 24 June 2019
by Michaël

“The maiden voyage”

Part 2/3

Carte de la deuxième partie du road trip en Islande en 2009

Jokulsarlon

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The silence of the night gave way to a tremendous din of bird calls, all happy to celebrate a new day in this place. It is 6:42.

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Friend who reads these lines, think that we are August 8, 2009. On the beach rest these incredible blocks of ice, the moment is magic yet I am alone, in full “high season”, not a photographer, not a tourist to the ‘horizon.
Things have changed a lot since then. I know.

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To the East fjords

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The beauty of an Icelandic horse.

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I did not know the mountains of Stokksness on this first trip. The sky was overcast and then I was too excited to explore the eastern fjords from where we can see this mysterious island named Skrúdur Island .

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It is one of the cross-ups on the road, close to Seyðisfjörður . Yet easy to access, nobody really pays attention to this fall. I want to fix this affront! I find it beautiful and worthy of interest. Here is Gufufoss , “The vaporous fall” …

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Hallormsstadur

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Hallormsstadur is an Icelandic “forest” bordering the lake Lagarfljót . We walk on paths lined with multicolored flowers, wild berries, a mossy soil sprinkled with mushrooms. A real delight.

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F910 & Askja

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It’s impossible to forget this first day in the Highlands , this feeling of immensity and adventure.

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We are embarking on the legendary F910 that reaches Askja . This track offers the feeling of sinking into the mythology of the Viking people.
These isolated lands were formerly areas reserved for criminals sentenced to exile, deprived for eternity of all contact with civilization.

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We missed a branch of the F910 and here we are on the dam Kárahnjúkar in full construction! No prohibition, no barrier to warn us of danger, here we are in the middle of huge construction machinery under the incredulous gaze of the workers.
Question : who can tell me how these cars descended to the bottom of the canyon?

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Askja and its turquoise Viti is like Rome or Paris , you have to see it once in your life. You can swim there, the water is 25 C ° but how to say … go paddling alone in these opaque waters, probable nest with sea monster … say that I was focused on my photographs. Oh yes, and it was late, we had no time.

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We were picked by a big grain this end of the day, those who surprise you in the mountains. Very dangerous in case of fog, one can quickly be disoriented.

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Myvatn Area

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Silver hair of Selfoss . I will return in the middle of winter in 2014 (to follow in a future story).

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The beauty of a whale.

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Thunder light on Námafjall .

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This famous “S” has become emblematic of Mývatn . It is captured from the solfatares of Námafjall , in the direction of Viti that follows.

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It is still early and we are the only ones to go around Viti in front of the solfatares of Leirhnjúkur . It was necessary to seize the chance of this anamorphosis: the heart was visible only from this single point of view.

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I have a real passion for Hverfjall , I feel something magnetic about him. How many times have I gone around? I do not know anymore. What purity, what majesty … The power of nature has left its signature here.

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Further another basin where the dipping is possible, but the water is much warmer (around 45C °) so be careful, it is not far from cooking!
Here is Grjótagjá , sheltered from a fault that is found in Mývatn . Grjótagjá is located near the fabulous crater Hverfjall .
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The pseudo-craters of Myvatn . Maybe you ask yourself why “nickname”? Because these craters are the effect of the soil broth due to a nearby eruption, they have no chimney.

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Iceland, Travel Stories

ICELAND † ARCTIC FOX

Posted 4 June 2019
by Michaël

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Let me present you a selection of photographs of arctic foxes I’ve taken in Hornstrandir in July 2016. You can read the full story of this trip here

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Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 5

Posted 30 May 2019
by Michaël

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 5/5

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4th and 5th day (the last).

I gathered these two days on the same page because the first is summarized in some images. The weather was gloomy and I let the rain crackle on Tobias’s tent as the hours passed peacefully under his awakening.

Sometimes it’s good to go with no purpose, to be satisfied with a simple fellowship: a friend, coffee, chatting.

What a strange character that Tobias remains here alone for months. The image quest is also a path to oneself. I think I understood his need to isolate himself from the world and live in peace in this wilderness. I admit that I would also try the experience of an extended stay.

Every day spent here is worth a thousand.

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But do we really need to move when the spectacle that is before you is so beautiful?

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It’s 22pm. I’m about to go to sleep when suddenly… The vixen appears …

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… soon followed by his little …

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… I have the feeling that she got used to my presence? She sits on the rock in front of me …

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… and watch me in the darkness. I realize that she came to greet me almost every night …

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… as if to accompany my dreams.

LAST DAY

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It’s 9:00 am. A ray of sunlight breaks through the fjord, letting me glimpse the other side for the first time. How beautiful ! A huge bowl is right in front of me…

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… and for the first time, colors appear on the cliffs.

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I see Hornvik’s caretaker’s house who is in charge of this area in summer. It is about an hour’s walk away, there is a campsite next door named Höfn , more popular and more comfortable than the one I live with Tobias ( Horn ) because he is on the beach in a more unobstructed area.

We are more isolated with Tobias but also more in contact with the nature and cliffs of Honrbjarg .

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You see the tiny orange dot to the right of the house? It is an emergency shelter as found in Westfjords . You will find a shelter and a radio to launch an SOS.

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Birds like me like this ray of light. They are millions to cheer the sky.

HIKING TO LATRAVIK LIGHTHOUSE

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It’s 10:30 when I head south from my camp. In front of me a totally unknown valley that climbs towards cliffs. I have not been to this area before. Tobias told me it was simple: I was going to find a path that would take me to the lighthouse. The hike is given for 3 hours. The boat will pick me up at 4pm. No time to lose!

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The fog thickens quickly and I can not find any path, I walk through a thick moor and waterlogged. There are huge puddles hidden by the bushes and the progression is not easy. Arrived on the heights I see to my surprise a silhouette sitting on a rock. This is a young volunteer from Arctic Fox Center . I salute him from a distance.
He launches me:
“Did you make the map of Iceland?”
He probably heard about my presence here.
I aquiesce. He gives me a thumbs up sign of approval.
I leave immediately for the lighthouse.

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I reach the steep cliffs and run south. I have to be very careful because I do not know anything about this area and visibility is low.

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The landscape is spooky, a Ghost Ship scenery.

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It’s almost noon when the sky is a little clearer and allows me to see, in the distance, the ultimate goal of this trip: Látravík Lighthouse.

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I approach but can not go further for lack of time. As you can see, a house was built next to it. It is possible to be hosted there.

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I enjoy a moment of the great spectacle that surrounds me. Some beautiful shades of blue appear.

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I dream by observing these cliffs facing east, a wild area where man rarely ventures.

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12.30 pm It’s time to return to the camp. The absence of rain and wind made the insects come out and I have to face a cloud of giant flies. I have to cover my head with my hands so that they do not enter my mouth and my ears. Anguish!

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Finally I found the valley to the camp and the flies disappeared with the mist.

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I take advantage of the little time I have left to make some pictures of this particular vegetation.

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3:17 p.m.. It’s so much to join my meeting point. Tobias, a faithful companion, helps me carry my belongings to the boarding area, in front of the two houses.

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4:25 pm The Zodiac arrives to recover me. Long are the minutes before I find the strength to speak. I did not make the same mistake as when I went: I went to the shelter, inside the boat. Beside me a pretty photographer seems alone. She’s American, and her name is Laura .

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Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 1

Posted 22 October 2018
by Michaël

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 1/5

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It was after a short night (2 hours) that I left to the north. Thousands of thoughts cross my mind during the 7 hours of travel. It is 3:40 pm when I drive along the immense fjords of the route 61 between Holmavik and Isafjordur . I touch the goal.

I arrive at 16:00 at Edda Hotel , I am in a state of fatigue rarely lived. However, I will have trouble sleeping, still driven by the adrenaline of the previous night and the stress of leaving all contact with the world in a few hours. Have not I forgotten anything? I have the impression of being on the eve of a departure on the moon and I struggle to find sleep. I only sleep 4 hours.

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Wake up at 6:00 am, check one last time my stuff before joining the port of Isafjordur . I park with caution because my car will stay alone for several days. I join some passengers who are already there, bag screwed on the back. Soon a great fellow of West Tours , bandana on the pirate-like head, invites us to embark on edge of BLIKI 2609

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The small boat is covered by a roof but there are some places outside on the back deck and I sit on the bench, too happy to breathe clean air and capture images during the crossing. We can see from here Le Boréal , one of the luxurious liner of the PONANT cruises specialized in polar expeditions.

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There are twenty seats inside the boat. Our friend from West Tours explains the trip and offers anti-mal-de-mer sweets ( a placebo I’m afraid). I will quickly understand why…

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The first minutes are pure happiness. The weather is cloudy but it does not rain. I sit, a box around my neck the other on my lap. The 70-200 allows me to capture details, the 17-40 the extent of the landscape that is offered to my eyes.

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A pyramid mountain as there are so many in Iceland or Faroe Islands . We cross some quiet birds, the sea is oil.

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Barely gone the reliefs are already impressive. That’s also what I’m looking for in Hornstrandir : mountains and cliffs.

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I capture this image of a zebra sky at wide angle but I gradually lose my means. The hollows are formed, the hull of the boat hits the wall of the waves more and more strongly. The coffee with the milk that I drank 3 hours ago makes me a thousand reproaches.

I am paralyzed on my seat, unable to say a word, I concentrate with all my strength not to let go of my devices but the boat moves in all directions, packs of sea pass over the roof and come to flood us. But what idea did I have to settle behind!

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Fortunately, after 2:10 of calvary (long!), The engine of the boat slowed its regime, we pass close to this rocky column.

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We finally enter the fjord I was hoping for: Hornvik . The landscape is unreal, very wild.

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Rock walls with strange shapes, fine waterfalls …

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… cliffs and cries of birds welcome us.

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A puffin flies over the bay. They are rather rare here, we must take advantage.

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That’s it, the captain stops our boat in the middle of the fjord. At the back we put the small zodiac in the water, it goes back and forth to drop the passengers on the ground.

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11.48. I’m the last one to land. You see my big duffle bag The North Face 130 liters. I also have my camera bag, about 30 kilos to wear in all.

INSTALLATION PART 1

It’s noon. The fatigue that has accompanied me for 48 hours now amplified by these 3 hours of driving on a rough sea leaves me dazed on the pebbles. I find myself alone in the middle of nowhere. There are these two houses laid there and that’s it. All other passengers vanished.

I know a campsite is about a kilometer away along the coastal path. But I can not carry all my equipment. So I take my Duffle bag on my back, leave my camera bag alone against the cabin, and go looking for this area.

The path is muddy, waterlogged, practicable limit, and as I am very loaded I sink down half ankle and miss falling several times. After 20 minutes of calvary I see some tents and finally say to me, I will be able to rest.

I leave 20 minutes in the other direction to get my camera bag and come back. I throw my last strength into setting up my tent. I empty my bag, install all my things to be quiet these next 5 days.

The installation takes me 3 hours. It is already 15h. Even if the weather is miserable and we do not see it at 20 meters, even if my legs are barely carrying me I decide to go up the mountain in search of Lake Superior, Miðdalsvatn , I have been waiting to see for months. After all I’m here for 5 days, tomorrow more than 4, we must not lose a drop.

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It climbs harshly and I quickly reach a beautiful point of view. The fog invades the fjord but I have a pretty precise vision of its shape and my new universe. Downstairs I see the two houses and more to the left (we do not see it on the photo) my tent.

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All my senses are awake, and despite fatigue my heart is filled with emotion to discover this new world.

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Three-quarters of an hour later I reach the lake. Mirage of a world which has just been born and of which man has never come to dispel tranquility.

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I spend a long time without moving to watch the show. Sometimes the birds fly to go around the lake and then come back to pose as a pointillist cloud. The mist removes any limit to the universe around me. I feel like I’m in a dream.

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I go along the lake and its meanders, marveling.

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It’s 5pm when I decide to go down because the sky is darkening. Every step of my way is a pain when suddenly … I come face to face with this family of arctic foxes. It seems to me that it’s a fox mother with her little ones. This is the first time I see it and I am speechless.

They stop and watch me for a few moments. By chance I have my 100-400 around the neck, barely time to trigger a little shaking, 3, 4 photos and they are already left.

My tiredness gave way to a broad interior smile. This vision warmed my heart.

INSTALLATION PART 2

I join my tent, exhausted, remove my shoes and my pants with difficulty.
I ache everywhere, I’m hungry, drenched, cold.
It is barely 18h but I slip into my sleeping bag with the desire to sleep for 20 hours. There, once installed, while I’m just starting to warm up, I hear some steps approaching my tent:
“You can not stay here, it’s private land, you do not have the right to stay here.”
I’m stunned, I open the zip with difficulty and a woman tells me that I must leave immediately.
The reason ? I settled on the camp area of Arctic Fox Center which welcomes some volunteers in summer. But this area is strictly reserved for them.
I try to negotiate, explains him I am very tired but she does not want to hear anything: I have to leave without waiting.
Imagine repackaging all my belongings, folding my tent and going back to the unknown. I still do not know, even today, where I found this strength.

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500 meters further I finally see the area. I find two tents near a stream. I decided to settle behind this embankment, in the front line but sheltered from the wind.

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It’s gone again for my installation. I have the impression that this day lasts a year. I finish around 18:30. While I am heating water for a soup I recognize two young men who were on the boat. They wave to me and invite me to join them in their little tent.

They are Israeli. We share their Bolognese pasta (half reversed on one of their downs!) By exchanging on the reasons that have led us here, a very warm moment that makes me very much good.

I join my tent at 9pm and collapse sleep.

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Iceland, Travel Stories

A DAY UNDER THE GLACIER VATNAJÖKULL

Posted 10 October 2018
by Michaël

2015 6 ISLANDE VATNAJOKULL VISITE GROTTE DE GLACE

10th march 2015

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A day spent in Crystal Cave, the sumptuous ice cave located under the Vatnajökull Glacier in Iceland (March 2015).

Our guide was Aaron Franklín, the young director of localguide.is whom I had seen playing in front of his house in a puddle when he was still a child (in 2009).

If you take the company Icelandair, that’s him playing in the “Welcome in Iceland” video before the flight (I recognized him!).

IMPORTANT: Even though I give you an idea of the location of this cave, it is very difficult to access. Moreover, it is a fragile environment and very sensitive to climate change. Do not attempt a visit over or under a glacier without a professional guide.

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PARTNERS

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This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

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Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2009 † SUMMARY

Posted 19 September 2018
by Michaël

“The maiden voyage”

August 2 → August 25, 2009. 23-day trip divided into 3 parts

PART 1 – Hjalparfoss → Haifoss & Granni → Landmannalaugar → Vík í Mýrdal → Skogafoss → Kirkjubæjarklaustur → Fagrifoss → Skaftafell → Svartifoss → Ingolfshofdi

PART 2 – Jokulsarlon → Gufufoss → Hallormsstadur → F910 Askja → Selfoss → Husavik → Myvatn

PART 3 – Hveravellir → Kerlingarfjöll → Gullfoss → Snaefellsnes → Kirkjufell → Westfjords → Reykjanes

Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2016 † SUMMARY

Posted 15 June 2018
by Michaël

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

July 23 → 28, 2016. 5-day trip divided into 5 parts

PART 1 – Departure from Ísafjörður to Hornvik

PARTIE 2 – The discovery of arctic foxes

PARTIE 3 – Hornvik beach

PARTIE 4 – Hornbjarg cliffs and Mt. Kálfatindar

PARTIE 5 – Hike to Látravík lighthouse

Iceland, Travel Stories

WINTER DAY † SILVER LIGHT

Posted 9 March 2015
by Michaël

9 march 2015

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Eighteen photographs that tell a full winter day in Iceland in March 2015. With my friends Fred, Antoine, Nini and Benoit, without forgetting the unique and indispensable Gummi our Icelandic driver.

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PARTNERS

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This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

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Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2012 † SUMMARY

Posted 19 September 2014
by Michaël

"The Kodachrome trip"

June 11 → July 10, 2012.
30 days trip divided into 6 parts.

2012 MAP ICELAND DAY BY DAY

PART 1 – Reykjvavik → Reykjanes Peninsula → Buri Cave → Gjain Canyon → Haifoss → Veidivotn → F228

PART 2 – F225 → Thjofafoss → Stora Dimun → Thorsmork → Eyjafjallajokull → Heimaey

PART 3 – F208 → Ofaerufoss → Langisjor → Landmannalaugar → Ljotipollur

PART 4 – Glufrafoss → Vik → Reynisdrangar → Dyrholaey → Ingolshofdi → Fjadrarglufur → DC3 → Lakagigar → Jokulsarlon

PART 5 – F338 → Hveravellir → F35 → Kerlingarfjoll → Djupavik → Herring factory → Latrabjarg

PART 6 – Flatey → Kirkjufellsfoss → Hraunfossar → Reykjavik

Iceland, Multi-Days, Travel Stories

ICELAND 2012 † 1

Posted 24 June 2014
by Michaël

"The Kodachrome trip"

Part 1/6

Reykjavik and Reykjanes peninsula

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It’s always a pleasure to meet Reykjavik . A city where I feel good and invites to stroll. As soon as I arrived, I went to the old hospital and photographed this neo-Gothic church, taking care to put the cathedral in the background. It is June 11, it is 11:25 pm and the sun radiates the city.

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The beauty of Grænavatn when he kisses the night.

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The Reykjanes lighthouse, the Reykjanesvíti was built in 1878. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1886 it was rebuilt in 1929.

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Kjartan Halldorsson is a former sinner, he is the creator of the cozy restaurant Sea Baron where I rush to devour some fish skewers. Kjartan is there every night, moving from table to table armed with his smile and distributing sweets to the children. He will die in 2015, a wax statue with his effigy (a little scary must admit) now pays tribute to him in the restaurant.

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I took advantage of the invitation from Bjorn Hroarsson , geologist and creator of the agency Extreme Iceland to explore one of the largest lava caves in the world. Bjorn discovered Buri Cave in 2005. It is 1 km long to a sinkhole plunging into the bowels of the earth.
“Entrailles” is a chosen word as the analogy is striking between this “earth hose” and that of a human body.

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Route 32

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Gjain Canyon is an idyllic place not far from the falls Haifoss and Granni . There is a maze of waterfalls in lush vegetation, which is quite rare in Iceland.

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Here is Haifoss , one of the splendors of Iceland to which I am particularly attached: it is the first fall that I went to see in 2009. Haifoss and its neighbor Granni always welcome me under a deluge of hail and rain, I take this for Icelandic benevolence.

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Veiðivötn et les 50 lacs

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Veiðivötn (the region of 50 lakes) is a remote area of the Highlands , very popular with Icelanders fishing enthusiasts. It must be a 4×4 to reach it and cross the two fords of the F228 .

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The volcanic atmosphere is unreal and the colors, from yellow to blood colors are simply sublime.

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A ray of light on this oxidized relief of Veiðivötn . A moment of grace.

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F228

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A sky with Michelangelo, hell and paradise on the same image.
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In Iceland we “see” the rain, we know where it rains somehow. Here is an example on this image of which I like the appeased composition.
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Close-up on the Loðmundur shark jaw on the skyline.

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Hail storm on the F228 . Like salt on the Icelandic sand. For an almost, almost black and white image.
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VIDEO BONUS

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Let’s go back to our first night at Reykjavik . It’s 11pm, Andy and Emilie are in the car while I take photos of Sólfar , the Icelandic longship, at sunset. Andy is fascinated by Dad’s big Cadillac. We will sleep in 23 days.

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Part 2/3

Jokulsarlon

To the East fjords

Hallormsstadur

F910 & Askja

Myvatn Area

Part 5/5

LAST DAY

HIKING TO LATRAVIK LIGHTHOUSE

Part 1/5

INSTALLATION PART 1

INSTALLATION PART 2

10th march 2015

PARTNERS

This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

August 2 → August 25, 2009. 23-day trip divided into 3 parts

PART 1 – Hjalparfoss → Haifoss & Granni → Landmannalaugar → Vík í Mýrdal → Skogafoss → Kirkjubæjarklaustur → Fagrifoss → Skaftafell → Svartifoss → Ingolfshofdi

PART 2 – Jokulsarlon → Gufufoss → Hallormsstadur → F910 Askja → Selfoss → Husavik → Myvatn

PART 3 – Hveravellir → Kerlingarfjöll → Gullfoss → Snaefellsnes → Kirkjufell → Westfjords → Reykjanes

July 23 → 28, 2016. 5-day trip divided into 5 parts

PART 1 – Departure from Ísafjörður to Hornvik

PARTIE 2 – The discovery of arctic foxes

PARTIE 3 – Hornvik beach

PARTIE 4 – Hornbjarg cliffs and Mt. Kálfatindar

PARTIE 5 – Hike to Látravík lighthouse

9 march 2015

PARTNERS

This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

June 11 → July 10, 2012. 30 days trip divided into 6 parts.

PART 1 – Reykjvavik → Reykjanes Peninsula → Buri Cave → Gjain Canyon → Haifoss → Veidivotn → F228

PART 2 – F225 → Thjofafoss → Stora Dimun → Thorsmork → Eyjafjallajokull → Heimaey

PART 3 – F208 → Ofaerufoss → Langisjor → Landmannalaugar → Ljotipollur

PART 4 – Glufrafoss → Vik → Reynisdrangar → Dyrholaey → Ingolshofdi → Fjadrarglufur → DC3 → Lakagigar → Jokulsarlon

PART 5 – F338 → Hveravellir → F35 → Kerlingarfjoll → Djupavik → Herring factory → Latrabjarg

PART 6 – Flatey → Kirkjufellsfoss → Hraunfossar → Reykjavik

Part 1/6

Reykjavik and Reykjanes peninsula

Route 32

Veiðivötn et les 50 lacs

F228

VIDEO BONUS

NEWSLETTER

June 11 → July 10, 2012.
30 days trip divided into 6 parts.