“The maiden voyage”

Part 1/3

 
 
 

 

 

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Iceland was not so popular in 2009, still faltering from the banking crisis a few months earlier. Always so secret and you will see it, still quite deserted. Always dreamed, I had carefully prepared this expedition. The investment was such that I was afraid I could go back anytime soon, maybe never? I wanted to see everything, or almost anything, not to miss anything of this natural miracle.

This gallery is a necklace made of the most precious pearls: first time . First falls, first black tracks in the middle of volcanoes, first crossed fords, first glaciers.

Dear friend who reads these lines, maybe you already knew your first time in Iceland?
Or are you preparing for your maiden voyage?

If this is the case, know that this trip is presented in a chronological order: we have walked in that order, exactly. This will give you an idea of the course and the proximity of the various places explored.

This first tour of Iceland will change my life. You will be the witness now.[/ip_width_txt]

Route 32

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Going on the Icelandic tracks is … like a second birth. Exploring a new world About two hours from the capital, it is Hjálparfoss that opens the ball. Hjálparfoss means “the fall of children” . Indeed, 3 young Icelanders kids at the bottom of the basin. Do you see them?

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If I had to make a list of my first desires before leaving, this eternal couple would have won. It is to them that we left the city we hurried. What a grandiose sight! Háifoss and Granni (122 meters!) finally unveil in a flood of rain, after 20 minutes of a rough track.

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Landmannalaugar

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I wanted to see Landmannalaugar from the first day. We arrived at the end of the day after walking on the F208 north . Facing the small Stutur crater , Emilie shivers in front of so much beauty … or maybe because of this fresh air? And yes … it’s August 3rd and it’s … 5 C °.

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Landmannalaugar the photographer will often bring back colorful pictures. Here is a first black and white image of the valley. These cotton flowers waterlogged, whipped by the wind, seem to me to be a privileged witness of the weather more than “capricious” that we will undergo – we do not know yet – 23 days.

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Hike on Blahnukur , the blue mountain under a flood of rain.

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I lamented this weather so detestable, low sky and a soggy lens! Past the anger I console myself seeing the images that translate well I believe the emotion felt.

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Vík í Mýrdal and the South Coast

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Storm on Vik . In the early morning, campers’ eyes are red with a sleepless night. Many tents are disemboweled and companions of misfortune have found refuge on the floor of the dining room. The time of a coffee I exchange with Rune who has just completed the trek of Laugavegur .

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How not to be fascinated by the variety of shapes, textures and movement of this rock, ancient molten lava today petrified.

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I was eager to try my filter on moving water so why not start on this beach? The vaporous, calm and gentle result as a lullaby is the exact opposite of reality.

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Vík í Mýrdal from hill Reynisfjall .
Unfortunately we will not be able to make this picture and I wanted to inform you of it: a dyke of heavy stones has indeed been built since, perpendicular to the beach.
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Here is this Gothic beach, one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world according to Island Magazine . The gusts of wind are such that the birds seem too frightened to fly. Only two ghostly silhouettes echo us in the distance.

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A ray of light has yet appeared. Fleeting, he only lit Skógafoss for a few seconds. A few seconds of eternity because the first look at Skógafoss , we never forget it.

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Overnight in Kirkjubæjarklaustur before attacking F206 in the direction of Laki . The weather is always infernal and the campsite man advised us not to go because the visibility will be zero. But I can not bring myself to this abandonment. The Lakagigar , I dreamed too much.

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Located on F206 leading to Lakagigar , I am overwhelmed by its beauty. Angel hair, bridal veil? Fagrifoss means “Beautiful Fall” in Icelandic.

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Crossing ford on the F206 .
Hummer H2 is a loyal and dedicated partner. We are riding high, riding no path, no river.
It is our car, our boat, our living room with a view, our kitchen, our dining room, our bedroom.

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Skaftafell

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Overlooking this desert, the old farm Sel dates from the Middle Ages. It is found in Skaftafell National Park , which has since become part of Vatnajökull National Park . Nestled in the peat to protect itself from the cold, it was abandoned in 1946.

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The queen of Skaftafell is one of iconic waterfalls in Iceland. Radiant in this concert of basaltic organs, here is Svartifoss .

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Ingólfshöfði

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I absolutely wanted to discover Ingolfshofdi , this peninsula that is reached by tractor across the lagoon. We discover many emblematic birds such as the Grand Labbe whose wingspan reaches 150 cm.
Posing here in an unlikely looking battle with a sheep, the photo is conducive to showing you its impressive size.

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Here is the lagoon we have to cross to reach the mainland. It is Matta who leads us on this invisible path between sky and sea, only guided by some stakes of wood.
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Skeiðarársandur is a plain on the south coast formed by glacial meltwater. Route 1 crosses these large lunar expanses, punctuated by metal bridges that are often rebuilt as a result of devastating “flooding”, a kind of terrestrial tsunamis caused by volcanic eruptions.

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Jokulsarlon

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The grail, the holy of holies for any photographer is him: the Jokulsarlon . I discover it in the night. Ghostly. See you tomorrow!

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