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ICELAND 2016 † HORNSTRANDIR 1

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

Part 1/5

 
 
 

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It was after a short night (2 hours) that I left to the north. Thousands of thoughts cross my mind during the 7 hours of travel. It is 3:40 pm when I drive along the immense fjords of the route 61 between Holmavik and Isafjordur . I touch the goal.

I arrive at 16:00 at Edda Hotel , I am in a state of fatigue rarely lived. However, I will have trouble sleeping, still driven by the adrenaline of the previous night and the stress of leaving all contact with the world in a few hours. Have not I forgotten anything? I have the impression of being on the eve of a departure on the moon and I struggle to find sleep. I only sleep 4 hours.

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Wake up at 6:00 am, check one last time my stuff before joining the port of Isafjordur . I park with caution because my car will stay alone for several days. I join some passengers who are already there, bag screwed on the back. Soon a great fellow of West Tours , bandana on the pirate-like head, invites us to embark on edge of BLIKI 2609

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The small boat is covered by a roof but there are some places outside on the back deck and I sit on the bench, too happy to breathe clean air and capture images during the crossing. We can see from here Le Boréal , one of the luxurious liner of the PONANT cruises specialized in polar expeditions.

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There are twenty seats inside the boat. Our friend from West Tours explains the trip and offers anti-mal-de-mer sweets ( a placebo I’m afraid). I will quickly understand why…

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The first minutes are pure happiness. The weather is cloudy but it does not rain. I sit, a box around my neck the other on my lap. The 70-200 allows me to capture details, the 17-40 the extent of the landscape that is offered to my eyes.

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A pyramid mountain as there are so many in Iceland or Faroe Islands . We cross some quiet birds, the sea is oil.

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Barely gone the reliefs are already impressive. That’s also what I’m looking for in Hornstrandir : mountains and cliffs.

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I capture this image of a zebra sky at wide angle but I gradually lose my means. The hollows are formed, the hull of the boat hits the wall of the waves more and more strongly. The coffee with the milk that I drank 3 hours ago makes me a thousand reproaches.

I am paralyzed on my seat, unable to say a word, I concentrate with all my strength not to let go of my devices but the boat moves in all directions, packs of sea pass over the roof and come to flood us. But what idea did I have to settle behind!

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Fortunately, after 2:10 of calvary (long!), The engine of the boat slowed its regime, we pass close to this rocky column.

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We finally enter the fjord I was hoping for: Hornvik . The landscape is unreal, very wild.

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Rock walls with strange shapes, fine waterfalls …

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… cliffs and cries of birds welcome us.

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A puffin flies over the bay. They are rather rare here, we must take advantage.

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That’s it, the captain stops our boat in the middle of the fjord. At the back we put the small zodiac in the water, it goes back and forth to drop the passengers on the ground.

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11.48. I’m the last one to land. You see my big duffle bag The North Face 130 liters. I also have my camera bag, about 30 kilos to wear in all.

 

INSTALLATION PART 1

It’s noon. The fatigue that has accompanied me for 48 hours now amplified by these 3 hours of driving on a rough sea leaves me dazed on the pebbles. I find myself alone in the middle of nowhere. There are these two houses laid there and that’s it. All other passengers vanished.

I know a campsite is about a kilometer away along the coastal path. But I can not carry all my equipment. So I take my Duffle bag on my back, leave my camera bag alone against the cabin, and go looking for this area.

The path is muddy, waterlogged, practicable limit, and as I am very loaded I sink down half ankle and miss falling several times. After 20 minutes of calvary I see some tents and finally say to me, I will be able to rest.

I leave 20 minutes in the other direction to get my camera bag and come back. I throw my last strength into setting up my tent. I empty my bag, install all my things to be quiet these next 5 days.

The installation takes me 3 hours. It is already 15h. Even if the weather is miserable and we do not see it at 20 meters, even if my legs are barely carrying me I decide to go up the mountain in search of Lake Superior, Miðdalsvatn , I have been waiting to see for months. After all I’m here for 5 days, tomorrow more than 4, we must not lose a drop.

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It climbs harshly and I quickly reach a beautiful point of view. The fog invades the fjord but I have a pretty precise vision of its shape and my new universe. Downstairs I see the two houses and more to the left (we do not see it on the photo) my tent.

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All my senses are awake, and despite fatigue my heart is filled with emotion to discover this new world.

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Three-quarters of an hour later I reach the lake. Mirage of a world which has just been born and of which man has never come to dispel tranquility.

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I spend a long time without moving to watch the show. Sometimes the birds fly to go around the lake and then come back to pose as a pointillist cloud. The mist removes any limit to the universe around me. I feel like I’m in a dream.

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I go along the lake and its meanders, marveling.

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It’s 5pm when I decide to go down because the sky is darkening. Every step of my way is a pain when suddenly … I come face to face with this family of arctic foxes. It seems to me that it’s a fox mother with her little ones. This is the first time I see it and I am speechless.

They stop and watch me for a few moments. By chance I have my 100-400 around the neck, barely time to trigger a little shaking, 3, 4 photos and they are already left.

My tiredness gave way to a broad interior smile. This vision warmed my heart.

 

INSTALLATION PART 2

I join my tent, exhausted, remove my shoes and my pants with difficulty.
I ache everywhere, I’m hungry, drenched, cold.
It is barely 18h but I slip into my sleeping bag with the desire to sleep for 20 hours. There, once installed, while I’m just starting to warm up, I hear some steps approaching my tent:
“You can not stay here, it’s private land, you do not have the right to stay here.”
I’m stunned, I open the zip with difficulty and a woman tells me that I must leave immediately.
The reason ? I settled on the camp area of ​​ Arctic Fox Center which welcomes some volunteers in summer. But this area is strictly reserved for them.
I try to negotiate, explains him I am very tired but she does not want to hear anything: I have to leave without waiting.
Imagine repackaging all my belongings, folding my tent and going back to the unknown. I still do not know, even today, where I found this strength.

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500 meters further I finally see the area. I find two tents near a stream. I decided to settle behind this embankment, in the front line but sheltered from the wind.

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It’s gone again for my installation. I have the impression that this day lasts a year. I finish around 18:30. While I am heating water for a soup I recognize two young men who were on the boat. They wave to me and invite me to join them in their little tent.

They are Israeli. We share their Bolognese pasta (half reversed on one of their downs!) By exchanging on the reasons that have led us here, a very warm moment that makes me very much good.

I join my tent at 9pm and collapse sleep.

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A DAY UNDER THE GLACIER VATNAJÖKULL

10th march 2015

 
 

 
 
 
 

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A day spent in Crystal Cave, the sumptuous ice cave located under the Vatnajökull Glacier in Iceland (March 2015).

Our guide was Aaron Franklín, the young director of localguide.is whom I had seen playing in front of his house in a puddle when he was still a child (in 2009).

If you take the company Icelandair, that’s him playing in the “Welcome in Iceland” video before the flight (I recognized him!).

IMPORTANT: Even though I give you an idea of the location of this cave, it is very difficult to access. Moreover, it is a fragile environment and very sensitive to climate change. Do not attempt a visit over or under a glacier without a professional guide.

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PARTNERS

 

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This trip was made while I was a guide for Grand Nord Grand Large

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FIRST DAY IN THE FAROE ISLANDS

January 21, 2017

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I will not hide it any longer, I was heavy hearted when I landed on the Faroese ground from Reykjavik this January 2017. I did not come from Paris, linen folded in a tidy bag no, I just came back facing 10 days in the harsh winter of the Icelandic Westfjords.

10 days of lonely walking through the fjords, snowstorms and blocked roads, the night falls at 3 pm and landscapes that leave you in tatters.

The trigger was the love of a girl I met in the summer of 2016, a “holiday love” in the Westfjords. This is not common you tell me, to meet someone in these wild lands. Magnetism, the magic of the place must have troubled us. Alas, the story did not last but I wanted to come back, walk in our footsteps to relive on the 66th parallel these moments shared.

Mixing storm and wounded heart was not the best of my ideas. You will soon discover this trip which, if it was trying, allowed me to keep my promise: discover the Westfjords in January.

And then came the time to change. To take some fresh air. Discover a new land. A cousin, a sister of Iceland: the Faroe Islands.

The decision was made a few weeks ago following the support of the Visit Faroe Islands team.

This will surprise you but I did not prepare anything, read anything, see anything on the Faroe Islands. I wanted to feel like a shipwrecked man, landing there without knowing anything, thus making every road, every path, a treasure of discovery.

This adventure will last 18 days. Here is the story of my first day.
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I stayed at the Hotel Foroyar . Everyone knows him. This is the grand hotel of the Faroe Islands. We celebrate weddings, major events, we receive presidents (Bill Clinton has left his name to a sequel). Nestled in the ground and overlooking the city, the rooms all overlook the bay. Every morning is a miracle of colors, lights and reflections.

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From here you can see the harbor. I like cities that have a port. I have often said that it is a fragrance that is lacking in Paris .

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What would I do with this day? I only listened to my desire, that of turning left out of the hotel and take 50 , this old road often plunged into the fog that runs through the backbone of Streymoy . It is one of the most beautiful roads of the Faroe Islands, why resist?

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Make no mistake. The light does not spread like a liquid. It’s solid, compact, it’s a snake of photons that slips slowly into the hollow of Kollafjørður .

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Past the long tunnel here I am on Vagar . Since Sandavágur we can see other islands whose name I do not know yet. I watch the show. The light is low, powerful and fragile at the same time.
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I’m heading to THE LAKE. In all respects he sows trouble. To begin with it has two names: Sørvágsvatn or Leitisvatn , that is according to. The Faroese call it “The Lake”, this solves the question.
Visual trouble then because this lake seems suspended above the waves like the gardens on Babylon . I spend my first hour walking along the calm waters. The contrast with the ocean in the distance is striking.
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Arrived on the cliffs Trælanípa I take the measure of the elements that face me. Here everything is right angle. Horizontal and vertical form the landscape. Nature plays Mondrian .

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Sørvágsvatn (8)” couleur=”white” heure=”11:45″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/8″ pause=”1/125″ angle=”17 mm” iso=”200″ ][/ip_exifs_txt]

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I venture on the summits. I reach the point of view so much hoped for. From here we offer ourselves the unthinkable, the elements play with reality. I venture close to the edge. The wind blows so hard, 200 meters below the ocean is unleashed. With a trembling hand I hold the box, the other I grab the rock.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Geituskorardrangur (9)” couleur=”white” heure=”12:23″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/7.1″ pause=”1/80″ angle=”35″ iso=”160″ ]Vue sur le lac Sørvágsvatn et Geituskorardrangur[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Further down I see the Bøsdalafossur fall, an umbilical cord that connects clear waters and salt water. Just behind the Geituskorardrangur , basalt canines of the Vagar south coast. There deep down the island of Mykines that makes me dream so much.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Ritubergsnøva cliffs (10)” couleur=”white” heure=”12:35″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/6.3″ pause=”1/400″ angle=”35 mm” iso=”100″ ]Balade sur les falaises de Ritubergsnøva[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I would like to stay here, enjoy it, but I have another project for the day. It is 12:30, I have an hour to reach the car … it gives us 13:30? okay. The sun sets at 15:58 sharp. It leaves me 3 hours to complete my idea.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Trøllkonufingur (11)” couleur=”white” heure=”13:20″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/5″ pause=”1/640″ angle=”182 mm” iso=”250″ ]Trøllkonufingur et une petite maison à côté qui montre sa taille gigantesque[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I have taken the lead and this quarter of an hour in advance allows me to try to approach the finger of tröll, the “ Trøllkonufingur “. It is as high as the Eiffel Tower (313 m) yet I do not know how to reach it, it escapes my every step. I walk through a moor full of water, jumping fences, pulling myself out of the bushes, looking for a point of view that will restore all its majesty.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Bøur (12)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:06″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4.5″ pause=”1/320″ angle=”24 mm” iso=”100″ ]Le village de Bøur et son église[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I found the car. It’s time to go west, it’s already past 14h. I stop at Bøur , hypnotized. It is the most beautiful village that I have ever crossed.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Hike on Vágar (13)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:28″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/125″ angle=”45 mm” iso=”100″ ][/ip_exifs_txt]

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I pass this river and park my car at the end of a path. There I take my two boxes (5DSR + 24-70 f2.8 II, 5DSR + 100-400 f4.5-5.6 II) around my neck and get ready to climb the mountain Heinanøva culminates at 612 meters.
What is my goal ? Avoid the tunnel and reach Gásadalur on foot, by the mountain. But why ?…

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”The fjord of Sørvágur (14)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:42″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/100″ angle=”26 mm” iso=”100″ ]Vue sur le fjord Sørvágsfjørður[/ip_exifs_txt]

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Until 2004 Gásadalur “the valley of geese” was one of the most isolated villages in the world. The only way to reach it (or leave it!) Was to walk a 3.5 km trail that passes through the mountain. This steep 2h30 route was used by the postman three times a week, whatever the weather conditions.
I wanted to walk in her footsteps to pay tribute to her and enjoy incredible views of Sørvágsfjørður , Tindhólmur , and Mykines . I did not want to discover Gásadalur otherwise than through the eyes of the postman.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Tindhólmur (15)” couleur=”white” heure=”14:47″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”1/500″ angle=”24 mm” iso=”100″ ]Tindhólmur au coucher du soleil[/ip_exifs_txt]

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I do not hide that, starting this hike at 14:30 alone and without light, I was a little stressed. But for the same reasons I offered myself a sunset and Tindhólmur against the light, accompanied by fulmars grazing my shoulder each time I approached the void.

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Mykines (16)” couleur=”white” heure=”15:08″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/4″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”44 mm” iso=”100″ ]L'ile de Mykines et un oiseau[/ip_exifs_txt]

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What a thrill to discover Mykines , the bow of the Faroe Islands, silently resting on the ocean in front of me. It seems deserted and for good reason: only 10 inhabitants find refuge, nestled in a valley on the west side, on the other side.
I do not know yet, but I’ll be there a few days later by helicopter (the only way to reach it in winter) reach the village of Mykines to live an extraordinary adventure (to read in an upcoming story).

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[ip_exifs_txt vendre=”” produit=”” titre=”Night falling on Gásadalur & Múlafossur (17)” couleur=”white” heure=”16:57″ appareil=”Canon 5DSR” diaphragme=”f/8″ pause=”30 sec” angle=”20 mm” iso=”100″ ]Gásadalur et sa chute Múlafossur[/ip_exifs_txt]

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At the top the view is indescribable but I have to hurry because the sky darkens.
I run along the path that goes down to the village. The slope is steep and pebbles roll under my feet. I soon reach the road and head for Múlafossur , the iconic fall of Gásadalur .
There is nobody. The crash of the waves covers my wave to the soul.
The image is unreal and the sensations, immense.
I put my tripod because the light is gone. 30 seconds will be needed to capture this image.
It is 4:57 pm
In a minute it will be dark.

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PARTNERS

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This trip was made with the support of Visit Faroe islands

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ICELAND 2009 † SUMMARY

“The maiden voyage”

August 2 → August 25, 2009. 23-day trip divided into 3 parts

 
 

 

PART 1 – Hjalparfoss → Haifoss & Granni → Landmannalaugar → Vík í Mýrdal → Skogafoss → Kirkjubæjarklaustur → Fagrifoss → Skaftafell → Svartifoss → Ingolfshofdi

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 1.

 

PART 2 – Jokulsarlon → Gufufoss → Hallormsstadur → F910 Askja → Selfoss → Husavik → Myvatn

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 2. Silhouette près de la chute Godafoss.

 

PART 3 – Hveravellir → Kerlingarfjöll → Gullfoss → Snaefellsnes → Kirkjufell → Westfjords → Reykjanes

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

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, ,

ICELAND 2016 † SUMMARY

"Phantasmagorical Hornstrandir"

July 23 → 28, 2016. 5-day trip divided into 5 parts

 
 
 

 
 
 

PART 1 – Departure from Ísafjörður to Hornvik

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2016 PARTIE 1.

 

PARTIE 2 – The discovery of arctic foxes

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 2. Silhouette près de la chute Godafoss.

 

PARTIE 3 – Hornvik beach

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

PARTIE 4 – Hornbjarg cliffs and Mt. Kálfatindar

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

PARTIE 5 – Hike to Látravík lighthouse

 
Image sommaire RÉCIT ISLANDE 2009 PARTIE 3. Reflet dans le lac devant la montagne Kirkjufell.

 

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,

DON’T FORGET LANDMANNALAUGAR

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Nam liber tempor cum soluta nobis eleifend option congue nihil imperdiet doming id quod mazim placerat facer possim assum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna aliquam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.

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